Nottingham yeast cider maple syrup how to#

If you are seeking a finished hard cider that will be fizzy (as in carbonated) instead of still (not fizzy), you have three options for obtaining good results: Slow and steady wins this race, for sure. What you want is a room that you can control the temperature so that you don’t get wild swings. Some cider makers try to slow it down even further by using lager yeasts that like even lower temps around 40 – 50F. With the Nottingham yeast (or other ale yeast) it is recommended to keep your brew room fairly cool 55 – 65F. The amount of time it takes to get the yeast going is also dependent on the temperature of the juice. More sugar = more yeast = more bubbles = more alcohol. The more sugar that is in there, the more the yeast can eat, and the faster they will reproduce. Of course, if you added more sugar, you are going to get more bloops. In a day or two, this bubbling will be blooping out of your airlock at a rate of more than one bloop per second. The first thing that you will notice after adding your yeast (well, in about 24 hours) is the little bubbles that begin to form around the top of the liquid.

Nottingham yeast cider maple syrup how to#

If it is important for you to know exactly how much alcohol is in your hard cider, visit one of the cider forums in the links section to learn how to use a (Hydrometer) and what you need to measure. Lots of folks on the forums like Nottingham. Yes, there are “cider” yeasts, but aside from the White Labs 775 I don’t know too many folks that swear by them. For cider, we are going to use an ale yeast, like Nottingham. (If you want to make apple wine, use the Lavlin EC 1118 yeast, as it can survive to ~13% alcohol content or so…but this is a cider site so you will need to look elsewhere for help with that). This happens when the yeast make so much alcohol that the can’t survive in the toxic soup and they die off. If you add any more than that, you are about to make apple wine. Add another 1/2 cup of brown sugar to all of this, and you can see around 7 – 8% (yeeowza!). If you add 1/4 (12oz) can of frozen apple juice concentrate to your gallon of cider, you can (no pun) bring this up to about 5-6%. sugar that was not originally in the juice, like brown sugar, honey, frozen apple concentrate) you will end up with a cider around 3.5-4.5% alcohol. Rule of thumb is if you add no extra sugar (i.e. The amount of sugar in any given batch of apple juice can vary widely, year to year and crop to crop. How will you know if you need to add more sugar? Without some more complicated equipment (and calculations), you actually will not be able to measure the potential for alcohol production of your juice, or the exact alcohol content of your brew. If you want to have a higher alcohol content, you will need to add more sugar at the beginning of the fermenting (alcohol making) process. The “alcohol content” of your final brew will be determined by how much sugar you start out with. The yeast will continue to eat, and reproduce, and make alcohol–until the sugar is all used up.

This alcohol production is called “fermentation.” If you have sweet cider, any yeast that comes in contact with it is going to quickly begin to eat up any of the natural sugars that are in the juice. Alcohol is produced when yeast begins to break down the sugar that is in your sweet cider. A quick look at alcohol formation:Īlcohol is what makes the hard cider hard. Here is a simplified overview of how the process works and how you can use your knowledge to tailor your hard cider to your tastes. Don’t like it? Well, you better give up bread too. Yes, when you are drinking hard cider (or any other brew) you are drinking yeast poop. When yeast begins to eat sugar, they digest it, and carbon dioxide gas and alcohol are both produced as a waste product. Natural carbonation (“carb” or “carbing” in brew speak) and alcohol are both products of our friends–the yeast.